A recent transplant from California asks, "Have you tasted Sterling Vineyards wines?" Yes, and I believe their Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines are among the best from California I've tasted recently. These include the 1999 Reserves at $65 to $75, the 2000 Napa Valley, $22 to $24, and 2001 Vintner's Collection at ($13).

The inky dark red reserve wines are intended for cellaring; Cabernet aromas and flavors include blackberry, currant and cinnamon dominant with cocoa and caramel hints. Merlot aroma and flavors include black cherry, cedar and hints of chocolate. Silky, lingering finish.

The Napa Valley Cab is big and chewy, with berry, current and plum aromas and flavors dominating. The Vintners collection Cab is a full-bodied wine with intense cherry and blackberry fruit aromas, black cherry and chocolate flavors.

Recent releases include the 2001 Winery Lake Vineyard Pinot Noir; deep purple ruby color, aromas of black cherry and cinnamon, soft on the palate with a dark cherry finish. Their Winery Lake Chardonnay with aromas of creamy lemon and pineapple, with a background of apple butter and butterscotch; flavors of ripe apple and creamy vanilla.

The 2001 Reserve Chardonnay is a big one from the Napa Valley: honeyed pear, pineapple and vanilla cream aromas and caramelized fruit and cream in the mouth; heavy, silky and viscous with a long finish.

The winery is located in the Napa Valley at Calistoga, and has an excellent web site at www.sterlingvineyards.com. I was especially impressed that the first page of their web site asks the reader to enjoy their product responsibly, a constant theme in my own wine classes.

Englishman Peter Newton, an international paper broker, founded the winery in 1964, and produced the first vintage over thirty years ago in 1969, concentrating on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.

The buildings incorporate a reminder of Sterling's English roots: the bells from St. Dunstan's Church in London. The old church was destroyed in World War II, but the bells, now in their new home in the tower overlooking the Valley, still chime every half hour.

Buena Vista Carneros Estate, Sonoma, CA., was founded by Hungarian wine pioneer Count Agoston Haraszthy in 1857, and is said to be California' s first premium winery. This winery, has some excellent wines in the $15 to $25 range. The 1999 Cab has aromas of blackberry, vanilla and cedar; flavors include berry cassis and vanilla with a touch of spice. Winemaker Judy-Matulich-Weitz recommends pairing this full-bodied wine with grilled meats.

The 1999 Merlot is full-bodied with many layers that unfold with each sip, like pomegranate and chocolate. It Pairs well with lamb, red meat, and flavorful tomato-sauced pastas like lasagna.

More on this and other tasty California wines next time.

NICK'S PICKS: Sterling Vineyards, CA., 2000 Napa Valley Merlot: Dark ruby red; ripe raspberry fruit the dominant aroma and flavor, hints of vanilla, and cedar; long, full, rich finish. ($22)